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Nyonya: Malaysian Cuisine in Little Italy

About.com Rating four out of Five

From Judy DeCosta, for About.com

The Bottom Line

If you're looking to experience Malaysian cuisine without breaking the bank, and don't mind waiting for a table, Nyonya offers the perfect opportunity.
Pros
  • Affordable
  • Tasty Malaysian Cuisine
  • Accepts Reservations
Cons
  • Wait for a Table
  • Cash Only

Description

  • Nyonya Address: 194 Grand Street
  • Nyonya Phone:(212) 343-6701
  • Nearest Subways to Nyonya: 6 to Spring Street
  • Nyonya Cross Streets: Mulberry and Mott
  • Price: $5-15 per person; includes appetizer and main course
  • Special Info: No Credit Cards; Reservations Accepted; Delivery Available
  • There's always a line at dinnertime, but watch the cooks at work in the kitchen while you wait.

Guide Review - Nyonya: Malaysian Cuisine in Little Italy

Nyonya is a small, unassuming Malaysian restaurant in the heart of Little Italy. I find myself there monthly and always start with the standard Malaysian fare: the roti canai, a deceptively small serving of chicken & potato curry with buttery roti or flatbread followed by salty fish fried rice. Nasi lemak, a Malaysian staple, is worth trying at this restaurant. For the uninitiated, this combination platter of spicy chicken curry--redolent of coconut, rice cooked with cloves and screwpine leaves, and mixed vegetables with chilli paste and anchovies, garnished with a hard boiled egg. Don't panic --the flavors blend perfectly in your mouth. The satay, a perennial favorite in Malaysian restaurants, is sadly less than stellar at Nyonya.

Nyonya food reflects a delicate fusion of Indian and Chinese cuisine. A Nyonya meal typically covers the spectrum of hot and sour to sweet and fruity, the latter long before any waitstaff asks if you're ready to see the dessert menu. The nyonya rojak is a prime example. Try this salad of mango, pineapple, crunchy turnips and cucumbers and chewy squid, all coated with a shrimp paste so gooey and intense, it tastes mildly like unsweetened chocolate.

For dessert there's green tea ice cream, or if you're feeling adventurous: the Chendol or ABC. Both are bowls of shaved ice flavored with syrup and condensed milk, with the addition of red beans and corn kernels respectively. This authentic Malaysian treat is particularly welcome after a spicy dinner.

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